Since being revamped, the neighbourhood of La Roquette, almost the size of the historic centre, has become the most pleasant place to be in Arles. Its colourful little working-class streets, which encircle the Gothic church, Église St Césaire, command views over the Rhône; beautifully restored buildings are home to shops and craftsmen. Feel free to take a break at one of the outdoor cafés on Place Paul Doumer, which is quieter and less touristy than the Place du Forum.