"Red roofs against the blue sea" is how Cézanne described L'Estaque. A number of painters followed the master here: Renoir, Braque, Dufy, Marquet, Othon Friesz... Nowadays a few fish restaurants and stalls selling "chichis frègis" (sugar doughnuts) carry on the tradition of l'Estaque. For a view of the harbour? Head up to the old village, on the church square.
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