The iconic establishment of Jacques Le Divellec (1983-2013) is now the HQ of Mathieu Pacaud. The culinary theme continues to demonstrate a seafaring slant as the menu ebbs and flows with the tides, paying tribute to top-of-the-range seafood: sole meunière from small boats, aïoli of cod and seasonal veg, langoustines grilled in tarragon. This traditional, forthright and wonderfully legible score is served in a stylish interior.