This elegant restaurant boasts an idyllic setting in the gardens of the Palais Royal, a stone's throw from the Ministry for Culture. Officiating in the kitchen is Philip Chronopoulos, who notably worked at L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon (its Étoile location) and with Alain Passard. He cooks up creative and striking cuisine, designing bracingly mature recipes with Mediterranean accents. From Athens to Paris (the name of one of the menus), from the delicate mezze to start the meal to the inventive desserts, his art elevates superb ingredients, some of which are nods to his native Greece: saffron from Kozani, honey from the Peloponnese, exceptional olive oil. "Royal" is indeed the word.