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On the site of the former Ferme Saint Simon (an institution dating back to 1933), Gaya par Pierre Gagnaire has all the distinctive signs of a gourmet temple and its bright blue façade and pretty awnings catch the eye, as is often the case of select establishments. An exclusive clientele comes to wind down in the chic brasserie that is fashionably stark but has retained its gleaming copper and magnificent bar. The focus is on good food in a bid to cater to modern French sensibilities with a seafaring slant (carpaccio of seabream, pink radishes and grapefruit; giant langoustine, cream of Paimpol beans, scallion onions) and a fondness for veggies, although meat now also makes the occasional guest star appearance on the menu (“Venetian style” calf’s liver, for example).