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Geosmin is the aroma that rises from freshly ploughed or wet soil. The restaurant of Maxime Bouttier is very much in touch with nature. Hailing from the Sarthe département, this chef has worked in the kitchens of some of the greats (Christophe Hay, Le Pressoir d'Argent in Bordeaux, L'Atelier de Jean-Luc Rabanel and even Mensae in Paris). His dishes are delicious, pared-back and accomplished, steering clear of the trap of over-complexity; the flavours are on point – cf. his artichoke, sardine and caper creation; the jus and sauces are concocted in time-honoured tradition (excellent beurre blanc sauce on the wild turbot, green beans and peas). The two-storey town house in a terraced row in the Oberkampf neighbourhood has the distinctive feel and decor of the eastern districts of Paris.