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A Canadian couple, Noam Gedalof from Montreal and Etheliya Hananova from Winnipeg, had the brainwave to open their first restaurant in Paris after honing their skills around the world. The chef, formerly of The French Laundry, California, draws his inspiration from Gallic traditions, to which he adds a modern spin. His mission is to highlight seasonal ingredients with the utmost care, tailoring the menu to the produce. This flavoursome score is sampled in a natty modern interior, whose deep blue walls are hung with landscapes by contemporary artists, and with an open kitchen to the rear. The front of house is in the hands of the chef’s warm welcoming wife and the couple certainly lives up to their compatriots’ reputation for good cheer.