This is the kind of bistro-cum-wine bar that ensures that Paris will always be Paris! Picture the scene: the owner, sporting a jaunty cap and bristly beard, greets you with a broad grin and seats you at your table, before going on to recommend a good wine produced by one of his mates. In the kitchen, British chef Ollie Clark (Bruno Doucet's former second-in-command) rolls out a big-boned, no-fuss menu (there is often offal to be had), crafted from quality ingredients that the owner has carefully selected: pâté en croûte of guinea fowl, foie gras and pork; vol-au-vent of poultry, chanterelle mushrooms and cream of vin jaune…