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When its previous incarnation was destroyed by fire, no one was injured, but nonetheless many mourned the loss of one of the city's most cherished Cantonese establishments. With its return, dim sum devotees can rejoice once again, and indeed you're likely to find this modest yet tidily appointed SoMa spot full of regulars during lunch hours. Families and business types alike find pleasure in artfully pleated Shanghai dumplings filled with rich broth and fresh crab meat, or baked pork buns with a crackling topping; sweet bites like fried sesame balls, egg tarts and mango pudding are also much admired. At dinner, the menu is fleshed out with more substantial, large-format dishes, including crisp-skinned roast duck and fragrant steamed seabass.