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Tucked away in an inconspicuous space in the heart of Japantown, this nine-seat counter feels miles away from the bustling outside world—though be punctual, or the meal will begin without you. Specializing in kappo cuisine, the less-formal counterpart to Kaiseki, the 12-course menu similarly reflects the seasons, featuring a progression of dishes spanning a series of delicate bites, both hot and cold, and culminating in a hearty dish of steamed rice (which might be enriched with hairy crab), paired with pickled vegetables and savory miso soup. In between, you’ll find various other preparations of pristinely fresh seafood, whether impeccably sliced sashimi or ultra-crunchy fried tilefish. At the end, a silky matcha custard is a final note of refinement.