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With exposed brick, a bar that goes on and on, and lights swirled into a sloped ceiling, this cool-kids restaurant has wide appeal. There is certainly seating for all occasions: white banquettes in the back, an up-close chef’s counter and plenty of tables in between. By design, the menu has faint Asian touches but is otherwise broad in its selection of seafood, pastas, steaks and vegetables. The results? Surprisingly dialed-in, largely thanks to a kitchen that makes as much as it can in-house. Highlights include cod with beurre blanc and chili crisp and, for dessert, a sugar-crusted profiterole filled with miso dulce de leche mousse and mascarpone cremeaux. Live music throughout the week will either attract or deter, depending on your mood.